Like Mother Like Daughter: Jeanne Lanvin and Gazette du Bon Ton from 1920-1925

Jeanne Lanvin was a prolific French couturier who enjoyed several decades of success during the twentieth century. First training as a milliner during the late 19th century and subsequently opening her own business in 1889, Lanvin eventually joined the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in 1909. She ran a highly successful fashion house for many years, … Continue reading Like Mother Like Daughter: Jeanne Lanvin and Gazette du Bon Ton from 1920-1925

Classicism and Couture: Greek Art and Design Meets Chanel

‘I’m suggesting going back to move forward. To create the future, you have to pay attention to the past.’ – Karl Lagerfeld ‘There is some irony in a designer who famously dislikes nostalgia creating a collection inspired by an era from about 2,500 years ago.’[1] We start this blog post with two opposing perspectives of … Continue reading Classicism and Couture: Greek Art and Design Meets Chanel

Boué Soeurs: Calling for Research Help!

Last year whilst researching the dress of debutantes, I encountered a designer which I previously had little knowledge of. The name was Boué Soeurs, and the dress I uncovered was the garment pictured below: Above Images: C.I.68.48a–e. Boué Soeurs presentation ensemble. c1928. Silk, metallic threads; silk; feathers, cellulose nitrate. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. When I … Continue reading Boué Soeurs: Calling for Research Help!

Blooming Marvellous: A Review of the V&A’s Fashioned From Nature Exhibition

Fashioned From Nature could not have come at a more critical time. Increased environmental awareness has finally seemed to resonate with the population. Hopefully, and crucially, it will and has made people aware of their own behaviours; how they personally impact the planet on which we live, and share. Reactions to programmes such as BBC’s Blue … Continue reading Blooming Marvellous: A Review of the V&A’s Fashioned From Nature Exhibition

The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined

‘Vulgarity exposes the scandal of good taste.' - Adam Phillips Exhibition poster for The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined Exhibition. Image Credit: The Barbican. It's quite unusual to find the works of Madame Gres, Karl Lagerfeld, Alexander McQueen, and Christian Dior, amongst many other cherished designers in an exhibition titled The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined. The Barbican Art Gallery has installed a … Continue reading The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined

Big, Small, Short and Long: A Brief History of Fashionable Silhouettes

'Fashion consists only in extremes [...] frivolity and death.' 'Does fashion die [...] because it can no longer keep up the tempo?' Walter Benjamin - The Arcades Project The fashion system relies on a never-ending cycle of newness, spectacle, emulation and death. This is how fashion works - without the invention of new, or the recycling … Continue reading Big, Small, Short and Long: A Brief History of Fashionable Silhouettes

Charles James: The Art of Fashion

I have asked the question many times before, particularly in regards to the work of Japanese designers. I also think of designers that have placed the structure and composition of garments in the forefront of their design visions, Madeleine Vionnet, Madame Grès ect. But the one designer who stands out, a man who was experimental and innovative, determined to … Continue reading Charles James: The Art of Fashion

Fashion and Film: A Biography of MGM Designer Gilbert Adrian

Films provide escapism for those who watch them. Viewers are transported to a world of glamour, stardom, excitement and fantasy. During the ‘Golden Era’ of film, a time commonly associated with the 1930’s, cinema became an enormous industry in America. With the arrival of the talkies (sound films) during the late 1920’s, by 1930, 80 … Continue reading Fashion and Film: A Biography of MGM Designer Gilbert Adrian