As we enter a brave new world, we arrive at a time and place where there is an opportunity for transformation, a chance to remodel, rebuild, and consider what will happen next. Some may think that it is wholly inappropriate to discuss the nature of fashion and the way we dress in the midst of … Continue reading Fashion of the Future: The Impact of Covid-19 on Fashion and Dress History
Last year whilst researching the dress of debutantes, I encountered a designer which I previously had little knowledge of. The name was Boué Soeurs, and the dress I uncovered was the garment pictured below: Above Images: C.I.68.48a–e. Boué Soeurs presentation ensemble. c1928. Silk, metallic threads; silk; feathers, cellulose nitrate. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. When I … Continue reading Boué Soeurs: Calling for Research Help!
'Fashion consists only in extremes [...] frivolity and death.' 'Does fashion die [...] because it can no longer keep up the tempo?' Walter Benjamin - The Arcades Project The fashion system relies on a never-ending cycle of newness, spectacle, emulation and death. This is how fashion works - without the invention of new, or the recycling … Continue reading Big, Small, Short and Long: A Brief History of Fashionable Silhouettes
Fashion designers are no stranger to the profitable world of perfume. Indeed, the couturier Paul Poiret, began producing scents after establishing his own perfumery during the 1910's, aptly naming his side-business and products after his daughter Rosine. Poiret's perfumes were the perfect accompaniment to his Orientalist and avant-garde fashion designs. They often referenced his love for Far … Continue reading The Scent of Surrealism: The Perfumes of Schiaparelli
I have asked the question many times before, particularly in regards to the work of Japanese designers. I also think of designers that have placed the structure and composition of garments in the forefront of their design visions, Madeleine Vionnet, Madame Grès ect. But the one designer who stands out, a man who was experimental and innovative, determined to … Continue reading Charles James: The Art of Fashion
Films provide escapism for those who watch them. Viewers are transported to a world of glamour, stardom, excitement and fantasy. During the ‘Golden Era’ of film, a time commonly associated with the 1930’s, cinema became an enormous industry in America. With the arrival of the talkies (sound films) during the late 1920’s, by 1930, 80 … Continue reading Fashion and Film: A Biography of MGM Designer Gilbert Adrian
'I despise simplicity. It is the negation of all that is beautiful,' - Norman Hartnell (Source V&A Museum, Norman Hartnell biography). A presentation at court to the royal family was a rite of passage for most upper-class girls during the 1920-30’s. A long lasting tradition of the British establishment, the trip to Buckingham Palace was … Continue reading Princesses, Parties and Debutantes: Sir Norman Hartnell – British Couturier